Author(s): Dong-Hoon Yoo
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Keywords: No Keywords
Abstract: In order to characterize the surfing waves, Iribarren (1950) suggested a non-dimensional physical number, which is the ratio of beach slope to the square root of wave steepness. The Iribarren number is widely used by coastal engineers for classifying the type of breaking waves and for estimating armor weight and run-up height. In the present paper new surf parameter is proposed by forming the ratio of beach slope to the wave steepness, which is called ‘2nd order Iribarren number - J ’, and the original Iribarren number ‘1st order Iribarren number - I ’. Another set of surf parameters is developed by forming the product of the beach slope and the ratio of wave celerity to the square root of gravity acceleration times wave height. They are called ‘1st order wave action slope - X S ’ and ‘2nd order wave action slope - Y S ’. When the values of wave length or wave celerity are taken from an offshore condition, I is proportional to X S and J is proportional to Y S. When the values are taken from a local condition, however, they are not simply proportional to each other. The wave action slopes imply further effect of wave shoaling through dispersion relation. The runup height is related to the 1st order wave action slope, and the optimum weight of armor unit is related to the 2nd order wave action slope. Both relations have relatively simple forms having excellent co-relations with laboratory data, while the relations developed by employing Iribarren numbers have some limitation in the validity.
Year: 2005