Author(s): T. E. Baldock; J. A. Alsina; I. Caceres; P. Manoonvoravong; Kim Son Pham
Linked Author(s):
Keywords: Beaches; Sediment transport; Long waves; Surf beat; Wave groups; Equilibrium state
Abstract: Long waves, or Surf beat, in the coastal zone, have long been proposed to be important in influencing coastal morphology, but direct evidence is limited. This paper will present the results of novel experiments to investigate the influence of wave groups and long waves on coastal sediment transport. The data from two different experiments in small and large scale wave facilities will be compared, and both data sets show consistent results. The different influence of free long waves and wave groups is very evident, and they have opposite effects. The role of long waves and wave groups on beach response is discussed with an equilibrium state model. Considering the functional form for such a model suggests values for the effective relative fall velocity that produces the maximum rate of shoreward transport, or the maximum rate of beach accretion.
Year: 2011