Author(s): Songdong Shao

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Abstract: The paper employs a Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) approach to investigate the time-dependent wave breaking processes. The numerical model is the smoothed particle hydrodynamic (SPH) method. It is a mesh-free particle approach which is capable of tracking the free surfaces of large deformation in an easy and accurate way. The widely used two-equation k-∊ model is chosen as the turbulence model to couple with the incompressible SPH scheme. The numerical model is employed to reproduce cnoidal wave breaking on a slope under two different breaking conditions–spilling and plunging. The computed free surface displacements, turbulence intensities and undertow profiles are in good agreement with the experimental data and other numerical results. According to the computations, the breaking wave characteristics are presented and discussed. It is shown that the SPH method provides a useful tool to investigate the surf zone dynamics.

DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/00221686.2006.9521686

Year: 2006