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Wave Breaking Simulation by a Boussinesq Model in Two Horizontal Dimensions

Author(s): Efstratios N. Fonias; Constantine D. Memos; Theofanis V. Karambas

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Keywords: Two-dimensional models; Boussinesq; Wave breaking; Eddy viscosity

Abstract: In the present paper, a Boussinesq model by with improved dispersion and weakly nonlinear characteristics is improved to simulate wave breaking in two horizontal dimensions. Both spilling and plunging breakers were taken into consideration. The model so far has been proven capable of simulating accurately wave propagation and breaking due to bathymetric changes in one horizontal dimension. A fourth-order predictor-corrector numerical scheme was employed to simplify the numerical implementation. The wave breaking due to variations in water depth was simulated, through the eddy viscosity breaking model. In the improved model the Boussinesq equations become simpler and the quality of the output was increased through a stable and efficient computational code. The model was verified against regular and random wave propagation. The results were as compared against one dimensional experimental data and software MIKE21 BW, including plunging breaking monochromatic waves. The proposed model was also checked against two-dimensional experimental results for breaking and nonbreaking monochromatic waves. The model results are in general quite acceptable for both one-and two-dimensional wave propagation in shallow water.

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Year: 2013

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