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A Wave and Circulation Coupled Model for Wave Transfer to Coastal Locations

Author(s): Valentina Filipetto; Luigi Cavaleri

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Abstract: In a parallel paper presented at the Coastal Structures 2007 conference, a wind and wave atlas of the Mediterranean Sea has been presented. The atlas provides, both in paper and electronic form, full statistics at a very large number of points sparse throughout the basin. In this paper we present a method to transfer these results to any selected coastal point or area, in so doing deriving the full statistics at the location (s) of interest. The model is based on the inverse ray technique and takes into full account the local dynamics (generation and dissipation). Nonlinear interactions are not considered, a choice coherent with the limited times and distances required to transfer the wave conditions to the coast from the closest offshore point where the data are available. The model takes also into full account the interactions with currents, and it is therefore suitable for applications also in areas where strong local currents imply substantial modifications of the local wave field. The model has been applied to the coastal zone of the Venice lagoon and, in particular, to the areas facing the three inlets connecting the lagoon to the open sea. The tidal currents reach here speeds up to four knots. Direct applications have quantified the substantial modifications of the local wave conditions consequent to the presence of the flow, in-or out-going depending on the phase of the tide, and therefore of the waves entering the harbour entrances.

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Year: 2007

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