Author(s): Winyu Rattanapitikon

Linked Author(s):

Keywords: Wave shoaling; Energy flux conservation; Linear wave; Cnoidal wave; Simple wave model

Abstract: Wave height transformation is typically computed using the energy flux conservation law based on linear (1st-order Stokes) wave theory. It is well known that linear wave theory underestimates shoaling wave height at locations with a large Ursell number near the breaking point. To overcome this underestimation, several combined (Stokes and cnoidal) wave models have been proposed to compute wave shoaling. The main disadvantage of cnoidal wave models is the complexity of the calculations, which involve solving implicit equations using the iteration method. In the present study, a semi-empirical method is proposed to simplify the calculations. To account for wave nonlinearity, the linear wave model is modified by adding a correction factor to the energy flux equation. To avoid iteration, the correction factor is proposed in the form of an explicit formula. Six sources of published experimental results are used to examine the models. The accuracy of the present model is compared with those of existing linear wave model and combined (1st-order Stokes and cnoidal) models. It is found that the present model and the combined models yield significantly better accuracy than the linear wave model. Compared to the combined models, the present model is much simpler yet offers slightly better accuracy.

DOI:

Year: 2024