Author(s): Mario Oertel; Jan Mönkemöller; Andreas Schlenkhoff

Linked Author(s):

Keywords: Artificial stationary surf wave; breaking wave; numerical model; physical model; tube length; VOF

Abstract: Surfing is one of the most popular water sports. A number of regional coastal hotspots have naturally breaking surf waves, but wave heights and breaking processes depend on various boundary conditions like seabed geometry, beach formation and swell direction. Since the optimum combination of these conditions is rare in time and place, the formation of surfable waves cannot be guaranteed. In addition, the sport's popularity is currently rising even in inland regions, and with it the interest in generating artificial surf waves in rivers or technical constructions to provide surfable waves at any time and place. This research focuses on small-scale surf waves in a physical and numerical model to identify easy-to-handle geometries and to validate numerical simulations as a low-cost solution for varying boundary conditions. Breaking heights and generated tube lengths are analysed for various geometrical and hydraulic conditions to find set-ups for the creation of stationary breaking waves.

DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/00221686.2012.672831

Year: 2012