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A Comparison Between Boussinesq and Nsw Theories for the Numerical Simulation of Wave Setup

Author(s): Mostafa Shahrabi; Khosrow Bargi; Peyman Badiei

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Keywords: Nearshore Hydrodynamics; Wave setup; Radiation Stress; Boussinesq wave theory

Abstract: Increase in mean water level or setup is the result of the transfer of momentum to water column during the wave breaking process. During the wave breaking process, wave energy dissipates mainly due to the turbulence. On the contrary of momentum flux continues with no dissipation. Since the momentum flux at the shoreline is zero, an increase in the mean water level occurs to compensate for the force generated by this flux and an equilibrium condition is satisfied. Considering the horizontal balance of the net wave induced stresses: radiation stresses, mean surface level changes could be obtained. So the accurate calculation of wave setup depends on the precise definition of the radiation stresses as a function of wave properties such as shape and height. Wave parameters which are employed to calculate radiation stress are functions of the applied wave theory. Aim of this paper is considering Boussinesq and NSW theories capability in modeling wave setup and makes a comparison between them to propose the best theory for the numerical simulation of wave setup.

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Year: 2015

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