Author(s): Pietro Scandura; Corrado Altomare; Ivan Caceres; Giacomo Viccione; A. Dominic Van Der
Linked Author(s): Dominic van der A, Corrado Altomare, Giacomo Viccione
Keywords: Wave breaking; Barred beach; SPH simulation
Abstract: The coastal region is naturally very vulnerable to flooding and erosion, and this has been exacerbated in recent times by climate change, which has led to an increase in the frequency of storms and a rise in sea levels. In this scenario, the adoption of appropriate coastal defence measures becomes increasingly important. This requires a good knowledge of the hydrodynamics of the coastal zone. In particular, the hydrodynamics of the surf zone are not yet fully understood and require further study. Many previous studies have focused on the surf zone, but they have mostly considered the case of a flat beach, whereas the presence of bedforms is often observed. Nearshore bars are a common feature of sandy beaches and are known to play an important role in the hydrodynamics of the surf zone. Several models have been developed in the past to study the flow in the surf zone. Most of these models are based on the Eulerian description of the flow, resulting in the discretized form of the governing equations defined on a fixed grid, as in Jacobsen et al. (2014). This can be a shortcoming in the case of a free surface subject to high deformation. Lagrangian approaches such as the Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamic (SPH) method may be more suitable for studying flows with highly deformed water/air interfaces. Here we present SPH numerical simulations of breaking waves over a barred beach in a large-scale wave flume and compare the results with experimental measurements.
Year: 2024